Couple of Days Off!

 No blog post today or tomorrow, we're having a couple of days off!

See you Saturday!

Wednesday 28 June 2023 - Molde to Eidsbygda

21 miles

A latish start as we were planning to travel not too far today. Sunny and warming up again and we eventually got away 11.40, reflecting that this was perhaps one of the best "wildcamps" we've used, to the point that we wouldn't have minded staying over an extra night. But ever onwards and back to the main road and sort of southish, the usual few tunnels, one 3km underwater, various bridges and one electric ferry, which again was just coming in so we didn't have to wait long. This is a pay ferry but using the Autoferry Pass we get a 50% discount, worth going to the trouble of arranging it before leaving home.

Campsite from across the fjord

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only a short run then to the campsite we'd picked out last night, Saltkjelsnes Camping at Eidsbygda - oh how glad we are that Norwegians are taught English from first grade! We booked in for 3 nights then found a pitch close to the fjord shoreline, a bit sticking out but hopefully not too exposed. A few kids were enjoying a beach and swimming cove just behind us - looks tempting! The site has all facilities including a washing machine and dryer which we need so while Terry was organising lunch Bren got started on a couple of loads and by late afternoon all was washed, dried and put away. Magic! Might do another load of bedding tomorrow then we're fine until we get home.

Sat out in the sun for an hour with ice-creams but the sky gradually clouded over and the breeze turned just a tad too cool to be enjoyable so put the chairs etc away and inside for tea. The forecast is for light rain overnight, fine tomorrow but more rain expected Thursday night. Whatever, we need a break from travelling and this will do us just fine.

Tuesday 27 June 2023 - Hommelvik to Mold

201 miles

 

A very warm night but the morning, although still sunny, was distinctly cooler. A slow start as the clouds started thickening and on to the E6 to Trondheim. Lots of roadworks plus plenty of tunnels and even a short section of motorway - toll of course! It was very busy but we didn't go right into the city, instead turning off west onto E39 towards our next "scenic tour", the Atlantic Road.

Only one ferry today which was just berthing as we arrived so only a short wait for a freebie 15 minute crossing and then a lunch break as it started to drizzle. On to Kristiansund via a long "underwater" tunnel, and the Atlantic road, the one that always features in travel stories about Norway, with the awkward looking bridge. Of course reality usually doesn't measure up to the pictures and such was the case here. In fact the "scenic route" was only 34km long and "that bridge" was really the only notable thing on it - yes the road did traverse quite a lot of islands and their connecting bridges but we've seen more dramatic elsewhere. There were, of course, quite a few folk "gawping" and stopping somewhere was quite difficult, so we didn't bother, hoping the photos we managed would be enough. Without realising it we also passed through another of our scenic routes which was just an extension of the Atlantic Road. Yes we're glad to have seen and done it, but it wouldn't feature very high on our recommendations list.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting later, it was time to sort out an overnight stop and for a change there were not too many in our apps - we even looked at a campsite but it didn't feel quite right so moved on - one of our rules. A possibility of a church carpark might have been okay but it was so isolated that a review comment about noisy youngsters in cars put us off. However in our experience something always turns up and P4N showed us another large gravelled parking area just outside Molde that turned out to be a local recreation area. Quite a few cars for hikers, dog-walkers etc but loads of room so we tucked ourselves away in a corner - right next to the start of a mountain bike trail............

The weather is now brightening up quite a bit and the forecast is fine for the next 24 hours although rain is expected overnight tomorrow. Realising we've not had a break from driving for over a week it's time to have a few days off so we're looking at a campsite not too far away that appears to meet our needs for some domestics, showers etc and a good clean up. Jamie also needs a break as he is cooped up in his cage all the time we are travelling (although he gets upset if he isn't) so some fresh air and exercise will do him good. He does love exploring, though, when we do stop and yesterday he managed to pick up a tick. Luckily we spotted it almost straight away and have all the necessary to deal with it.

 

 

Monday 26 June 2023 - Lysfjord to Hommelvik

190 miles

 

Another blusky morning and a little warmer too so after a reasonably early start we were on the road by 10.00am. Today is going to be a transit day, moving from one planned tour to the next, so the scenery was not as breathtaking as the last few days. In fact it was altogether "softer" with fewer montains and lakes and a lot more agriculture including livestock. Initially we stayed with the 17 but eventually spilled out onto the E6, which is the main north/south road through Norway. Despite it's status, it is in fact quite an ordinary road, mostly 2-lane and an overall blanket speed limit of 80kph. However it does pass through many towns and villages, all with the relevant speed restrictions and occasionally "speed bumps" at 30kph too. On the whole traffic keeps up to these speeds but it does not make for a fast transit if that is your need - it didn't bother us though.

Think the windscreen needs a wash!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Having decided to refill the fuel tank once we saw a reasonable price we did so just north of Steinkyer, then went looking for a supermarket to replenish the larder and pause for lunch. We did notice something very odd about fuel prices though; there didn't seem to be any competition as prices varied quite a lot depending on which brand you used. But the really peculiar thing was they all seemed to reduce after lunch, often by 1NOK (7p) per litre - we thought we saw this happening a few days ago but today confirmed that it actually does!

Lunch over, we'd noticed a free motorhome service point 5 minutes along the road so called in to empty the loo and top up the water tank. It's worth keeping an eye open for these places as, apart from using campsites, it can occasionally be difficult. On the way there Bren spotted an LPG sign, again these aren't widespread in Norway (almost non-existent in Sweden) so we went back and after driving round in circles found an automated pump behind some factory buildings (you just need to watch for the signs..........)  Not sure what happened but there was an elderly Norwegian motorhomer messing about on the pump before us, I think changing his bottle, before we could get on with it. However, on checking my credit card, I'd only been charged 1NOK (7p) for 8.9 litres of gas!

So with all domestics completed we got back on the E6 towards Trondheim and had a pleasant hours drive before starting to consider a nightstop. Once again P4N made a few suggestions, a couple of which we discarded but then chose a likely place just off the main drag in Hommelvik. The app described it as a large gravelled parking area fronting the beach and we spotted it easily enough - except that there was a main railway line in the way. Once again a bit of ducking and diving and we found the way in and joined dozens of cars whose occupants had decided on a day at the beach. A few motorhomes too, in fact one corner seemed to be dedicated to longer term storage, but there was plenty of space and 50 motorhomes wouldn't look amiss. The only drawback is that the railway station is just behind the parking with fairly regular passenger trains arriving and departing, plus the occasional freight service. Not too noisy though and it'll probably quieten down later.

The beach was being fully utilised and looked very inviting even though it was really only a narrowish strip of coarse sand but the temperature was 32 deg and the sunshine strong enough to burn. We had all the windows and vents open but Jamie wasn't too keen and spent the rest of the day trying to keep cool. As I write, at around 10.00pm, it's still high twenties and the sun is heading for the sea, but it will be a while yet before we get a proper sunset and darker nights.

 

Sunday 25 June 2023 - Hauknes to Lysfjord

162 miles

 

At last the sun is back and although initially not very warm as the day progressed so did the temperature until we were back to where we had been a few days ago. Bacon and egg sarnis replaced our usual Sunday Full English as frankly we couldn't be bothered with the hassle! So once cleared away we set off for the ferry at Hemnesberget to enable us to rejoin our planned route. A very pretty little town, a bit sleepy on a Sunday morning - but no ferry! Asked a young lady who told us the ferry stopped 10 years ago so we had to backtrack yet again! Funny but there was still a sign about turning off the gas which looked brand new.........

 

So back to the E6 and a short distance later we were able to "cross-country" and rejoin the 17, which we've now realised is an officially recognised tourist route. A few more tunnels including one almost 12km long before reaching our first ferry of the day, which we had to wait for until the previous boat to another destination had loaded and cleared the berth. Supposed to be another "freebie", the loader still took our number so we'll see, then a beautiful smooth cruise through yet more stunning scenery while we shared one sarni, one chocolate muffin and one bottle of orange for only £13.12! It was only a short drive to the next ferry but we just missed it and had to wait for over an hour before it came back. Interestingly this was an electric-powered ship, with a huge battery charger on the quay to plug into, and was almost silent and vibration free for the 20 minute crossing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although it was getting late in the afternoon we decided to push on and take the next short ferry before calling it a day. The mini-convoy we'd been part of for a while, driving from one ferry to the next, seemed to disappear and only a handful of vehicles had to wait a short time for the next, again electric, ship. Went up to the saloon for this one and had ice-creams, £5.16 for two is about the same as we'd expect at home, before disembarking and continuing with the 17. Park4Night once again to the fore and we identified a picnic site that others had used for a stopover, which turned out to be very nice with superb views and a waterfall to lull us to sleep. A few cars around which were for several walkers tackling the adjacent published hike up the mountain. We're not really sure if we are permitted to stay overnight but it is Sunday and very quiet so probably be okay.

So after a nice meal we did a little planning, working out when we had to be on our way back to the Chunnel. With two legs of our planned routes now completed and half our allotted time we appear to have more than enough so maybe we'll take a break for some domestics in the next couple of days. Weather forecast is dry and very warm for next 48 hours.

 

 

Saturday 24 June 2023 - Furoy to Hauknes

180 miles

 

No more rain but awoke to another dull cloudy and cool day. Breakfast, a full domestic service as we're on a campsite of course then round to the ferry which was just loading so no wait. Autoferry Pass worked okay again then a 12 minute crossing before joining a convoy of at least 7 motorhomes - we were tail-end Charlie of course. Despite the gloomy weather it was still a nice drive with more tunnels - we're doing more "night" driving than we ever do at home!

Crossing the Arctic Circle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another ferry, Jektvik to Kilboghamn (slips neatly off the tongue doesn't it?) which took an hour so we had a coffee and a cheese bun each which cost us £16.37 - eek! At least the ferry itself was a freebie, some of them are and more are to become free later in the year as we learned from the little booklet that Bren picked up from the campsite office. During this trip we crossed the Arctic Circle but nothing seemed to be made about it. Bren wanted a new Arctic Circle T-shirt so we thought we'd have a side trip back up to the visitor centre north of Mo I Rana. Seemed a bit daft but it's unlikely we'll be back this way again so why not? A very late lunch when we got there then a visit to the shop to make the desired purchase(s!). Ah well, you can't take it with you. But the nice lady did explain how we could claim the tax back, probably worth making the effort although if we have to declare it returning to the UK...........

Returned to Mo I Rana for fuel then rather than go back the way we'd come we saw that we could get back "on route" by using a small diversion and a different ferry to the one we would have had to use. However it was getting late so Bren checked out P4N and chose a likely looking place just a short distance down the road - "that one, you've passed it". It did look okay though so we turned around and found the way in with a few vans already parked up. Located ourselves on a nice enough spot then settled in. We later found the advertised facilities, not much but all free, a short distance down the pathway to a beach and Community Hall. The site is next to a railway line and hopefully, as it's Saturday night, it won't be busy; that said a freight train did pass later on but it wasn't too noisy.

But the best thing is that the weather has improved and as I write late evening the sky is clear but it is quite cool. However the forecast for the next few days is fine and warm again.
 

 

Friday 23 June 2023 - Nr Drag to Furoy

209 miles

 

A lot of rain overnight but it had stopped when we surfaced, although it was still dull, cloudy and rather cool. Nothing to hang around for so after breakfast we set off - or tried to, but we were stuck! The rain had softened the ground where we were parked and all four wheels had sunk in; Bertie was going nowhere. Digging out wasn't an option so we tried forcing our sand ladders - well actually halves of an old plastic bread crate - under whilst trying to rock the van back and forth. The wheels weren't spinning, there was simply not enough oof to pull out of the ruts. Finally we just had to be quite rough and, with Bren adding a bit of a push, he pulled himself out; hopefully there's no damage to the clutch or transmission, it all seemed to be okay. The new all-weather tyres must have helped in not letting the drive wheels lose their grip, much impressed.

So we continued to the motorhome service point we were heading for last night; it was very busy but all we wanted was water so crept in, filled the tank and crept out again! Then carry on into the next part of our tour, joining one of the scenic drives promulgated on the Norwegian Travel website which we had programmed into Nellie - TomTom took a back seat now, just showing the road ahead although he gave no indication of the many tunnels we went through of varying length up to 8km. Low cloud and occasional poor visibility in the odd light rain shower meant that it wasn't a very good day for photos but a few weren't too bad and give an idea of Norway in gloomier weather. Still dozens of motorhomes and campers about.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch was taken at a rest area/view point at Malstrom. The word maelstrom, meaning confused water, actually originates here as it is the site of said to be the fastest tidal race in the world where at high and low tides water is rushing either in or out of the fjords. Of course it was mid-tide when we were there but we did buy a couple of postcards that show it at its best (worst?). Departing, we found a supermarket just over the bridge so did a quick replenish of the larder before pushing on into a gradually clearing day. Once again Norway was doing its best to show us its attractive scenery.

Late afternoon we starting looking for a possible overnight stay, passing a couple of nice looking spots because we felt we ought to be further on but of course thereafter we found most of the suggestions in P4N were unattractive, had signs up saying no overnighting or were simply just closed. This is the danger of social media of course in that sometimes erroneous information gets pushed as fact; one persons opinion can differ hugely from another. Finally, over an hour later after vetoing yet another as nice but exposed we gave up and settled for a campsite just before the next ferry crossing we'd be making. It's not that we dislike campsites, most of them are excellent and have excellent facilities, but we don't need them, especially having been able to service the van fully during the previous 24 hours, and of course they charge, and don't they ever! Nevertheless we were made welcome at Camping Furoy and chose a nice firm (!) pitch with electric hookup. Maybe it was because it's Friday night but by early evening it was almost full.

The weather forecast is gradually improving over the next 24 hours and Sunday is better still but we'll carry on tomorrow as there is little point in just sitting in the van watching the rain!