Tuesday 4 July 2023 - Nesttun to Mandel

225 miles

 

An early start this morning, not only because we wanted to see how far we could get but we thought this carpark was likely to fill up pretty quickly with commuters going into Bergen - it's right across the road from the tram terminus. No problems and we were away around 9.00am with a plan to get as far as, if not past, Stavanger. Our Rough Guide tells us that there are two ferries on this route and of course lots of tunnels and bridges as the road crosses from one islet to the next. It was half an hour to the first ferry and, once again, one had just arrived so only a very short wait. This crossing was about 45m but although there was a saloon together with the self-service cafe, we stayed in the van, Terry just popping up to take a photo or two.

As we hadn't done a domestic service for a couple of days we checked out P4N which showed us several service points and we programmed one with good write-ups into TomTom. Waste dumped and water tank refilled we carried on after a brief chat with another motorhomer doing the same. It's very good how the local communities provide these facilities, you don't see them often enough in other countries and as for the UK..........! Back on the road and of course the scenery was yet again different with fewer mountains, plenty of trees, lakes and smaller fjords (a fjord is defined as being open to the sea, no matter how long it is, some of the more well known are very many miles) but also a lot of open farmland too. Obviously there is a higher percentage of population and so there's also plenty of light industry around as well.

In and out of tunnels, the first was 8km long and went under an island and the sea - we noticed a sign saying it was 323m below the surface - and several longer ones popped out of the side of a cliff, across a bridge and back into the cliff on the other side. Being the main E39 from Bergen to Stavangar then Kristiansand and eventually Oslo, it was a good if only generally a two-lane road so speeds were often limited by slower traffic. It must be said, however, that often we were the slower traffic, Norwegians hereabouts not seeming too bothered about posted speed limits. There are regular speed cameras but all are signposted in advance and easy to spot. Another 10 minute ferry with no waiting and it was time for a lunch stop at one of the regular picnic/rest areas, usually located in a nice position with good views and almost all with toilets, beautifully kept.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were making excellent time so we decided to see just how far we could get. Stavangar itself was relatively easy to negotiate as it had a 4km tunnel right under the city, but extensive roadworks slowed everything down. However it became obvious that it was quite possible to reach Kristiansand so we had a short stop and a rethink, then decided to find a campsite within easy distance of the port, book for 2 nights and have a day off. With a likely candidate programmed into TomTom we continued with the late afternoon sunshine at our backs and found Sandnes Camping at Mandel, about half an hour from Kristiansand. There was a queue to get into this obviously popular place but there were a few pitches left so we paid for 2 nights and found something suitable, not the best on the site but perfectly adequate for us. Whilst enjoying our evening meal we espied a Brit, only the third we have seen since Calais, and after tea Bren went for a wander with the dog and had a chat.

A long day today with higher than average mileage but we feel it was worth it. 

Monday 3 July 2023 - Hivjufossen to Nesttun (Bergen)

164 miles

 

The weather is not really getting much better although no more heavy rain, just the occasional shower today. Away by 1050 then a brief stop to top up the radiator reservoir as the warning light came on - it did it yesterday too but forgot.... All okay so shortly stopped to top off the fuel tank then head for the Hardangarvidda, the next scenic route. The road took us up into the mountains, this time with no hairpin bends, but we soon entered cloud and unfortunately we could see very little. There were some interesting tunnels however, one in particular spiralling it's way down and across itself several times. TomTom did his best but Nellie gave up and sulked!

At Edfjord we came round a corner and thought we were looking at a large block of flats but no, another large cruise liner was parked at the end of the street which had disgorged a large number of its passengers into the town which was quite lively. Continued along the fjord, in and out of more tunnels and probably because of the erratic nature of our main navigation system (Nellie) we missed a turn for the Hardangarvidda; when we realised it was too late. So we just followed the signs for Bergen, expecting a ferry but the quay was blocked off so we found ourselves in another 4km tunnel which popped out over a huge bridge then dived straight back into another 7km hole. We're sure we've spent more time in tunnels today than out in the open, especially when we noticed we'd lost a headlight. We then came upon the strangest thing we've ever seen, a full roundabout inside the tunnels! Not long after we came across a second underground which got us back onto our planned route. Norwegian engineering at it's most innovative!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heading towards Bergen now and although we were following the shoreline the area was becoming much more populated and we were passing through more and more townships. We stopped at Voss, one of the larger, for a big shop to replenish our food stocks then a late lunch. We've been to Bergen a good few years ago and to be honest, as it was getting late as we approached, thought we ought to start heading south for our booked ferry to Denmark in a few days time. Followed a link road heading to the main E39 while Bren sorted out a nightstop. P4N suggested a quiet carpark near the tram terminus in Nesttun, a suburb of Bergen, so after a bit of messing about we found the place up a back street and considered it to be fine, if a bit tight to access. A couple of other motorhomes were parked up and no restriction signs so this'll do us for tonight. Once parked up quickly sorted the headlight, which turned out to be a dirty connection although of course we do carry spares - when we remember where we put them.............

Sunday 2 July 2023 - Gjeilo to Hivjufossen

194 miles

 

An earlyish start to a dull and cloudy morning with more than a hint of rain, pesky flies still around though! Breakfast, special for Terrys birthday, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, then service Bertie and on our way. Beginning to lose track now of where we are and what direction we're heading in, not helped when Nellie doesn't want to wake up, but we managed. Once again super scenery, unfortunately the weather has spoiled getting decent photos but we've managed to at least get a tasting. Another long climb with lots of hairpin bends on narrow roads with passing places, fortunately not too busy today and we only met one service bus, on a hairpin bend of course!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dropping down on the other side we saw a P & O Cruises liner tied up at Skjolden, most of the passengers appeared to be strolling round the town as it looked uncommonly busy. Our route took us alongside the fjord until eventually we had to cross it and popped out of a longish tunnel where, once again, a ferry was just loading as we arrived, another freebie and again a battery powered ship - got a picture of the charging connector, it was huge! Off the boat and straight in to yet another tunnel, taking us to the next leg of the route.

Originally we had planned to go up over the Aulandfjellet and avoid the 21km tunnel but in view of the weather thought we'd give it a miss. However, the tunnel was closed and a super long diversion was in place so after pausing for a quick bite to eat we went back to Plan A and were glad we did. Initially the road was steep and narrow with, yes, lots of hairpin bends but at least it was quiet although mainly second gear most of the way up. But it spilled us out onto yet another fantastic area of mountains with many streams cascading down, lots of unmelted snow and dozens of lakes, some still frozen over. The dull and often very low cloud just added to the atmospherics as we bowled along on an almost empty road. Eventually it dropped back down again and after more tight turns we found ourselves at the other end of the tunnel, not exactly sure now of which way to go as we had made a few amendments to our planned route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Managed to turn around before plunging into another 27km tunnel taking us completely in the wrong direction and decided it was time to find somewhere to stop as once again it was getting late. We encountered a series of unusual tunnels along this road; they almost all circled and climbed until we realised we were following what amounted to an underground spiral with just the odd popping out into the light. Of course this completely messed up all our satnavs and mobile phones whilst we were trying to find a reasonable stopover. We looked at a campsite but it just didn't feel right and was ridiculously expensive for very few facilities, but most all of the P4N ideas were not really suitable. However we eventually came upon a largish carpark, used for local walks and a viewpoint for a waterfall, with nobody in it and no signs prohibiting overnight parking. Both now quite tired after another long day, we decided that it would be okay and although quite close to the road in our experience traffic will quieten down, although it's not busy anyway. A nice meal and relax before an earlyish night.

Once again, another day of varying and superb scenery; shame the weather didn't cooperate.

1 July 2023 - Eidsbjgda to Gjeilo

124 miles

 

An early start today as this leg promises to be highly scenic and we don't want to rush it. So after breakfast, a full domestic on the van and we were away by 10.00 with our first stop to top up the fuel tank at the next town, Andalsnes, before climbing the Trollstigen, or Trolls Staircase. This is a series of 11 hairpin bends, following a steep valley towards a spectacular waterfall. At the top there is a large carpark which was very crowded with at least 12 tour coaches (how on earth did they manage?) a couple of dozen motorhomes and countless cars - obviously it's Saturday so everybody is out for the day - but we managed to find a slot and Terry walked up to the several viewpoints for some piccies. The visitor centre is currently being renovated so closed until next year but the cafe and tourist shop were doing a roaring trade! It would have been better to visit this place during the week but the weather over the last two days would have meant we'd miss most of it so we made the best of it we could. To be fair, apart from the tourist hotspots everywhere else was relatively quiet. Even negotiating the dozens of hairpin bends was no problem, well, until a tourist coach came round the other way........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Down the other side, more hairpin bends and onto a ferry which had just arrived so no delays for the 10 minute crossing. We were now on the Geiranger road which climbs up another mountain (yes more hairpin bends!) before a very sharp, steep descent overlooking the most famous in Norway, the Geirangerfjord. Yet more hairpin bends giving us super views up and down the steep sided fjord and to the town itself where a Saga cruise ship was moored - that explained all the tour buses! The town was completely stacked out with no chance of parking a bike let alone an 8m motorhome so we crawled past and climbed up through the last of the hairpin bends onto a plateau and found a layby for lunch.

The road now was fairly straight with only gentle climbs and descents but with a totally different kind of scenery. Gone were the steep sided mountains, replaced with open moorland dotted with lakes, some still partially frozen although it wasn't cold. Some sunshine would have been nice but the clouds gave it that extra sombre look and the visibility was for ever. Checking the time it looked like continuing on to "do" the next leg would leave us quite late for finding an overnight stop and having experienced the fun of trying to find somewhere on a Saturday evening we decided to stop early and chose a small campsite. Of course being warm and humid the midgies were out but nets and citronella candles looked after that and we settled down to relax for the rest of the day.

As always the photos don't come even close to doing the scenery justice but we'll remember today as one of the best we've ever seen.