And to Finish

Tuesday

Was spent as a hang-around day as there was no point in heading to Eurotunnel, or "Le Shuttle" as it's now called until closer to our  booking. But mid-afternoon we went round to the service point to empty the waste tank and loo then headed for Calais. We needed a little bit of shopping to get us home plus the fuel tank needed topping off so thought we'd go to Auchan. Unfortunately someone didn't quite remember the way and we spent 15 minues trolling around the back streets of Calais, hopelessly lost until we stopped and enlisted TomTom's help.

Fuelled up and shopping done we had a cuppa and biccie until it was time to go to Le Shuttle. All changed round again, the Pet Reception having been moved to a totally different location and of course as we arrived the heavens opened. Short-lived however and by the time we'd cleared the formalities it was dry again and we joined the queue for French and then UK Customs. It's important to get one's passport stamped as having departed the EU to satisfy the 90 in 180 day rule! Then through a security and a gas check before boarding the train, really without waiting anywhere. The train left a few minutes late after a possible power failure, all the lights going out for a minute before coming back on.

Usual 35 minute trip, thinking that the ride is not as smooth as it used to be, then off-loaded into a pleasant evening in Folkestone. As intended we made our way to Canterbury and the New Dover Road Park & Ride where there is one of only a few proper motorhome parking areas in the UK. Busy but still places left, we parked up, walked Jamie then ambled down to The Old Gate pub for our evening meal. We've been here several times and never been disappointed, although it's not cheap, and today was no different. It perfectly finished off our holiday.

Wednesday & Thursday

Were spent just tackling the long slog home, stopping off at Terrys Mum near Lincoln overnight. Nothing significant and we arrived home safely about 4.00pm. Cuppa then unload the van ready for a good clean inside and out and attention to a few things over the next few days.

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We've thoroughly enjoyed this trip, despite the long drive, 5790 miles in all, and everything seemed to work out very well. Although we did have a few not so nice days, the weather generally could not have been better, which always helps. Bertie performed flawlessly and we've only a couple of minor niggles to sort out. You may recall our worries about the clutch but we've had no further indications of problems, although it will get thoroughly checked before our next trip.

Mission accomplished!

We hope you've enjoyed reading this drivel and maybe are encouraged to try something similar. Thanks for reading.

Terry and Brenda, not forgetting our little monster Jamie.

Monday 10 July 2023 - Gravelines

Lovely day again, our only task is to get Jamie to a vet for his worming tablet and passport stamp. So after breakfast drove round to the vet we've used before to see what we could do. Unfortunately they were very busy but made an appointment for 6.15 this evening; little we could do so we'll organise our plans accordingly.

Returned to the parking and then relaxed for the rest of the day, getting the chairs out to enjoy the sunshine. At the appointed time we returned but of course we were delayed seeing a very busy lady vet (the one who called Jamie a "good girl" then discovered he was a boy!). Once again he decided he wasn't having any of it but eventually she got it down him by being firm and a with lot less drama. However it meant that the time in his passport was 1900, effectively meaning we couldn't travel on the tunnel until after 1900 tomorrow.

Back to the van for our evening meal then tackle the Eurotunnel website. It's never a good idea to leave changing the booking until the last minute as they hike their charges - we ended up paying a £75 surcharge. It was either that or hang around here for another two days which didn't appeal. So assuming they'll let us on to the 1924 train we'll then go to the Canterbury aire to overnight and finish off our holiday with a nice meal at The Old Gate pub.

The problems in travelling with a dog - and it's all a load of bureaucratic nonsense anyway, Brexit or not!

Sunday 9 July 2023 - Zuidbroek to Gravelines

322 miles

An extremely warm night and still so at getting up time, although the sunshine was quite hazy. Bacon and egg sarnis for breakfast then away by 11.05, delayed for a few minutes because the canal bridge was open to let a boat through. Then back onto the motorway, now being guided by TomTom with Nellie as backup - when she decides to cooperate; she's been a bit reticent of late! Past Groningen heading towards Amsterdam but veering off to keep to the east side of the Ijsselmoer, the big sea inlet on which Amsterdam sits. Had another short delay whilst another bridge had been opened to let marine traffic through - funny, it's never caught us before but twice in one morning? Despite it being Sunday the road was very busy although we didn't experience any delays thus proving our decision to route through Netherlands rather than Germany was good. Okay the scenery was nothing to write home about but we were thankful we could watch it whilst passing, rather than staring at somebody's back bumper for an hour.

Stopped for lunch halfway to Breda, still stiflingly hot but now there were dark clouds ahead and shortly after getting away we ran into the forecast thunderstorm as we negotiated the Breda ring road. However it didn't slow us down much,the showers becoming intermittent as we left The Netherlands into Belgium and approached Antwerp. You will recall we had an ugly time trying to get through here on our way north but this time couldn't have been any more different. Of course all the roadworks were suspended for the weekend and there were very few trucks so apart from slowing down to negotiate the odd deviation we sailed straight through! To help it all, the weather rapidy improved too and we were able to keep up a very good average speed. Just short of Ghent the fuel gauge started dropping towards the red line so we pulled into a service station - we don't normally like to use motorway services for fuel as they tend to be more expensive, but it was either that or deviate off into a local town. But it worked out at £1.51 per litre so wasn't too bad and it should be enough to get home with.

Pressed on towards Ostende and Dunkirk into France, heading for our planned nightstop at Gravelines. However we first went to the service point, as it had been a couple of days since the last, and refreshed everything before moving on to the aire we usually use in this part of France. A few vans already parked uyp but with the "field" now fully opened and marked out there is loads of room. Okay perhaps €7.50 just for parking is a little pricey at least it's a nice safe place with no hassle and the service point is only a couple of minutes away. Plus the walls of the attractive old town are just across the road if we fancy a walk.

But not tonight; it's been a long drive today and after 7.00pm when we arrived so just settle in, quick cuppa then a late meal. The temperature has also reduced considerably and although still a warm 22C it's much more comfortable. Tomorrow we'll be taking Jamie to the vet we've used here before, only a couple of minutes drive away, to see to his Passport then look at our options for bringing the Chunnel booking forward. Nice as France is, we've completed what we set out to do and are looking forward to returning home.

 

Looks familiar but the roses are out and looking lovely

 

Saturday 8 July 2023 - Neumunster to Zuibroek

212 miles

An early start after a very quiet night to a lovely morning. No facilities here but a super spot for an overnight stopover, so after breakfast away by 10.15 am. First stop, refuel as we don't want to pay motorway prices later on; by our calculations this should be enough to get back to Calais. Just in passing, a gas bottle ran out late last night but the second one should easily see us home.

The autobahn was busy, as expected, but as we approached Hamburg it slowed to a crawl through extensive roadworks and through the Elbe Tunnel. To be honest we could see no good reason why it should have been so slow, maybe just the sheer volume of traffic. It was exactly the same on the northbound carriageway once we were clear. The day was turning out very hot and we were glad of the air-conditioning, making sure that it was also blowing over Jamie who isn't a fan of hot. Approaching Bremen we pulled into a service area for lunch.

Up to now we had been following TomTom, programmed to take the best route to Calais. However checking the map we saw we could avoid the worst of industrial Germany by heading slightly north of west via Oldenburg then into The Netherlands, routing Gronenburg, Amsterdam then Antwerp, which is difficult to avoid whichever way you go. It didn't look much longer but much nicer and we quickly discovered that indeed this was so, being a lot quieter too.

Around 4-ish we thought we should have a quick stop to see to Jamie and took the opportunity of checking P4N as we'd decided to stop earlier rather than later today. Only a few minutes away we noted a dedicated M/H parking place in the small town of Zuibroek, no facilities but on the banks of a canal, so programmed TomTom who of course had no difficulty finding it; the problem was the driver following TomTom............ Said to have two larger bays then a dozen smaller we hoped one would be available and were initially disappointed to see that the only two vans there had used the large spaces. However we noticed that one of the smaller had been extended and was easily big enough for us so we slipped into it, with a little help from the ramps to get us perfectly level. Cold drinks definitely in order although the fridge only runs on 12v when we're driving so struggles just to keep things cool.

Today is and has been stiflingly hot and humid with only a light breeze to alleviate it. As I write at 7.00 pm it is still 33C, we're both flopped out and Jamie is moving from place to place to try and get cool - he's obviously not suffering as his tea disappeared within two minutes, but clearly he's not very comfortable. It's forecast to be just as hot tomorrow but perhaps with some cloud cover - we're not complaining though, we've been so lucky with weather on this trip.

 

 

Friday 7 July 2023 - Bronderslev to Neumunster

259 miles

 

Although we had intended an early start it didn't quite work out but we've decided not to rush anyway so it doesn't matter. Breakfast then a full domestic for Bertie courtesy of the good inhabitants of Bronderslev who provided a useful service point and also allow motorhomes to use their, well, gigantic carpark. Would that UK towns take a leaf out of their book.

But the motorway calls and within a few minutes we were southbound, cruise control on and settled down to a nice steady run south. It had started out warm and dry but as the day progressed we saw more and more sunshine and the temperature rose accordingly - thank goodness for aircon! Being the main north/south route for this part of Denmark it was of course quite busy and free-running but no more mountains, forests or lakes, just kilometres of good old-fashioned somewhat boring motorway - we could have been in the UK.

Stopped for lunch at a service area near Kolding, not noticing the pesky little blackflies until it was too late so it wasn't a protracted stay. It also wasn't long until the traffic built up as we approached the German border - and then it all disappeared! Not for very long, though, as we ran into a humungous traffic queue of about 15km down to the bridge over the Kiel Canal where, once again, it all disappeared. We've no idea why it was so backed up nor where it all went.

So while crawling along Bren started looking for somewhere to overnight and P4N suggested a parking area a little way off the autobahn next to a lake at Neumunster, although there were plenty of other places available. TomTom guided us unerringly to a lovely little waterside gravel carpark, serving a couple of beaches, a cafe, canoe club and mini-marina. Being a nice hot day the locals were out in force but there was still plenty of room so we joined another motorhome, parking as carefully as we could so as not to take up too much room, as did several other vans. But not so a caravan tugger, who shouldn't have been here anyway, quite unnecessarily taking up four spaces with his large unit. It's folk like this who give our community a poor reputation, resulting in more and more prohibitions. (Rant over, puts away soap box.)

The weather forecast for the next couple of days is hot, over 35C, with wall-to-wall sunshine. We're a little tempted to stay over but there really isn't room enough to spread out and, from talking to the first motorhomer, it gets very noisy with children - not that we object to the sound of kids playing happily of course. So we'll move on but again won't rush.

 

 

Thursday 6 July 2023 - Mandal to Brondeslev

As we've only done 60 miles today, almost all on motorway, and spent most of the travelling day on the ferry we're not putting up a map. It's easy to follow, though, from the last to the next.

Earlyish start after a night of rain but it had dried up and the clouds were slowly lifting. After breakfast got Bertie serviced as we don't know where we'll be tonight and anyway that's one of the reasons for being on a campsite!

Off then down the E39 to Kristiansand, calling in at a fuel station but the pumps weren't working so carried on. We wanted to call in at a place in the city itself so that we could claim back the tourist tax on the goodies we'd bought earlier and as it was quite a reasonable amount it was worth the effort. TomTom found the location okay, except it was a pedestrianised street but we were ready for that and Bren was set to bail out and do the deed whlst Terry drove round in circles for a bit. The plan worked out fine, except for a lorry taking out a mirror, fortunately without damage, and Bren was picked up. Still being a bit early for the ferry, being conscious of the fact that Jamie would be cooped up in the van for a long while, we headed back out of town to look for some fuel on the premise that it was maybe cheaper in Norway. Wrong but at least we managed to refuel at a small station across the road from a supermarket with a big carpark so afterwards we did a little top-up shopping before lunch and several walkies.

Back into town and we joined the queue of motorhomes booking in then waiting for the ferry. We would estimate there were well over 100 units, certainly more than the number of cars and lorries! Eventually the good ship Stavangerfjord arrived and we experienced a really quick turnaround, everything off and reloaded within an hour to depart bang on time. After making sure Jamie was okay we headed on up into the accomodation and found reasonable seats in the forward "sports bar" which thankfully wasn't full of boozy travellers. However, although we were comfortable enough, on an evening crossing it might well be worth booking "air seats" or even a cabin if you want some peace and quiet. On this trip, however, most folk were more interested in getting food as the buffetbar had a queue for much of the crossing although the cafeteria-type place was empty and the full restaurant didn't ever seem to open. We ordered a pizza between us, which turned out to be huge and delicious, and a couple of Pepsi Colas. Later an ice-cream finished us off.

Despite the forecasted breezy conditions and a slightly choppy sea it was a smooth crossing, much to Brens relief as she doesn't like ships. It's quite a large modern boat of course so it easily handled the conditions and again was right on time arriving at Hirtshalls in Denmark. Ten minutes later the unloading machine had us off and away down the E39 (it's a European road number so stayed the same across the water/border), pausing at the first available service station to give Jamie a comfort stop and some exercise. He was of course extremely happy to see us, probably one of the longest periods he's been left alone, but he was soon fine again. Bren checked out P4N whilst we were stopped and located a free carpark with a motorhome service point about 15 minutes down the road so TomTom was instructed to find it and we joined a few other vans for a nightstop. It's just the carpark for a sports centre that seems to be closed for now but perfectly adequate for our needs. Still overstuffed from the pizza we just had a very light tea before an early night.

With the object of the trip completed we're now just programming the satnav for the Eurotunnel and we'll progress at whatever pace we feel comfortable with. We could rush on but having to find a vet for Jamie to be "wormed" then a 24hr holding period is just too much hassle. We've still got a week in hand!

Wednesday 5 July 2023

 No blog today, we spent most of it just relaxing in Bertie as the weather wasn't all that brilliant. Just the occasional amble about with Jamie, first watching the campsite empty then later watching it fill up again!

Early start tomorrow as the ferry to Denmark is booked.

Tuesday 4 July 2023 - Nesttun to Mandel

225 miles

 

An early start this morning, not only because we wanted to see how far we could get but we thought this carpark was likely to fill up pretty quickly with commuters going into Bergen - it's right across the road from the tram terminus. No problems and we were away around 9.00am with a plan to get as far as, if not past, Stavanger. Our Rough Guide tells us that there are two ferries on this route and of course lots of tunnels and bridges as the road crosses from one islet to the next. It was half an hour to the first ferry and, once again, one had just arrived so only a very short wait. This crossing was about 45m but although there was a saloon together with the self-service cafe, we stayed in the van, Terry just popping up to take a photo or two.

As we hadn't done a domestic service for a couple of days we checked out P4N which showed us several service points and we programmed one with good write-ups into TomTom. Waste dumped and water tank refilled we carried on after a brief chat with another motorhomer doing the same. It's very good how the local communities provide these facilities, you don't see them often enough in other countries and as for the UK..........! Back on the road and of course the scenery was yet again different with fewer mountains, plenty of trees, lakes and smaller fjords (a fjord is defined as being open to the sea, no matter how long it is, some of the more well known are very many miles) but also a lot of open farmland too. Obviously there is a higher percentage of population and so there's also plenty of light industry around as well.

In and out of tunnels, the first was 8km long and went under an island and the sea - we noticed a sign saying it was 323m below the surface - and several longer ones popped out of the side of a cliff, across a bridge and back into the cliff on the other side. Being the main E39 from Bergen to Stavangar then Kristiansand and eventually Oslo, it was a good if only generally a two-lane road so speeds were often limited by slower traffic. It must be said, however, that often we were the slower traffic, Norwegians hereabouts not seeming too bothered about posted speed limits. There are regular speed cameras but all are signposted in advance and easy to spot. Another 10 minute ferry with no waiting and it was time for a lunch stop at one of the regular picnic/rest areas, usually located in a nice position with good views and almost all with toilets, beautifully kept.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were making excellent time so we decided to see just how far we could get. Stavangar itself was relatively easy to negotiate as it had a 4km tunnel right under the city, but extensive roadworks slowed everything down. However it became obvious that it was quite possible to reach Kristiansand so we had a short stop and a rethink, then decided to find a campsite within easy distance of the port, book for 2 nights and have a day off. With a likely candidate programmed into TomTom we continued with the late afternoon sunshine at our backs and found Sandnes Camping at Mandel, about half an hour from Kristiansand. There was a queue to get into this obviously popular place but there were a few pitches left so we paid for 2 nights and found something suitable, not the best on the site but perfectly adequate for us. Whilst enjoying our evening meal we espied a Brit, only the third we have seen since Calais, and after tea Bren went for a wander with the dog and had a chat.

A long day today with higher than average mileage but we feel it was worth it. 

Monday 3 July 2023 - Hivjufossen to Nesttun (Bergen)

164 miles

 

The weather is not really getting much better although no more heavy rain, just the occasional shower today. Away by 1050 then a brief stop to top up the radiator reservoir as the warning light came on - it did it yesterday too but forgot.... All okay so shortly stopped to top off the fuel tank then head for the Hardangarvidda, the next scenic route. The road took us up into the mountains, this time with no hairpin bends, but we soon entered cloud and unfortunately we could see very little. There were some interesting tunnels however, one in particular spiralling it's way down and across itself several times. TomTom did his best but Nellie gave up and sulked!

At Edfjord we came round a corner and thought we were looking at a large block of flats but no, another large cruise liner was parked at the end of the street which had disgorged a large number of its passengers into the town which was quite lively. Continued along the fjord, in and out of more tunnels and probably because of the erratic nature of our main navigation system (Nellie) we missed a turn for the Hardangarvidda; when we realised it was too late. So we just followed the signs for Bergen, expecting a ferry but the quay was blocked off so we found ourselves in another 4km tunnel which popped out over a huge bridge then dived straight back into another 7km hole. We're sure we've spent more time in tunnels today than out in the open, especially when we noticed we'd lost a headlight. We then came upon the strangest thing we've ever seen, a full roundabout inside the tunnels! Not long after we came across a second underground which got us back onto our planned route. Norwegian engineering at it's most innovative!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heading towards Bergen now and although we were following the shoreline the area was becoming much more populated and we were passing through more and more townships. We stopped at Voss, one of the larger, for a big shop to replenish our food stocks then a late lunch. We've been to Bergen a good few years ago and to be honest, as it was getting late as we approached, thought we ought to start heading south for our booked ferry to Denmark in a few days time. Followed a link road heading to the main E39 while Bren sorted out a nightstop. P4N suggested a quiet carpark near the tram terminus in Nesttun, a suburb of Bergen, so after a bit of messing about we found the place up a back street and considered it to be fine, if a bit tight to access. A couple of other motorhomes were parked up and no restriction signs so this'll do us for tonight. Once parked up quickly sorted the headlight, which turned out to be a dirty connection although of course we do carry spares - when we remember where we put them.............

Sunday 2 July 2023 - Gjeilo to Hivjufossen

194 miles

 

An earlyish start to a dull and cloudy morning with more than a hint of rain, pesky flies still around though! Breakfast, special for Terrys birthday, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, then service Bertie and on our way. Beginning to lose track now of where we are and what direction we're heading in, not helped when Nellie doesn't want to wake up, but we managed. Once again super scenery, unfortunately the weather has spoiled getting decent photos but we've managed to at least get a tasting. Another long climb with lots of hairpin bends on narrow roads with passing places, fortunately not too busy today and we only met one service bus, on a hairpin bend of course!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dropping down on the other side we saw a P & O Cruises liner tied up at Skjolden, most of the passengers appeared to be strolling round the town as it looked uncommonly busy. Our route took us alongside the fjord until eventually we had to cross it and popped out of a longish tunnel where, once again, a ferry was just loading as we arrived, another freebie and again a battery powered ship - got a picture of the charging connector, it was huge! Off the boat and straight in to yet another tunnel, taking us to the next leg of the route.

Originally we had planned to go up over the Aulandfjellet and avoid the 21km tunnel but in view of the weather thought we'd give it a miss. However, the tunnel was closed and a super long diversion was in place so after pausing for a quick bite to eat we went back to Plan A and were glad we did. Initially the road was steep and narrow with, yes, lots of hairpin bends but at least it was quiet although mainly second gear most of the way up. But it spilled us out onto yet another fantastic area of mountains with many streams cascading down, lots of unmelted snow and dozens of lakes, some still frozen over. The dull and often very low cloud just added to the atmospherics as we bowled along on an almost empty road. Eventually it dropped back down again and after more tight turns we found ourselves at the other end of the tunnel, not exactly sure now of which way to go as we had made a few amendments to our planned route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Managed to turn around before plunging into another 27km tunnel taking us completely in the wrong direction and decided it was time to find somewhere to stop as once again it was getting late. We encountered a series of unusual tunnels along this road; they almost all circled and climbed until we realised we were following what amounted to an underground spiral with just the odd popping out into the light. Of course this completely messed up all our satnavs and mobile phones whilst we were trying to find a reasonable stopover. We looked at a campsite but it just didn't feel right and was ridiculously expensive for very few facilities, but most all of the P4N ideas were not really suitable. However we eventually came upon a largish carpark, used for local walks and a viewpoint for a waterfall, with nobody in it and no signs prohibiting overnight parking. Both now quite tired after another long day, we decided that it would be okay and although quite close to the road in our experience traffic will quieten down, although it's not busy anyway. A nice meal and relax before an earlyish night.

Once again, another day of varying and superb scenery; shame the weather didn't cooperate.

1 July 2023 - Eidsbjgda to Gjeilo

124 miles

 

An early start today as this leg promises to be highly scenic and we don't want to rush it. So after breakfast, a full domestic on the van and we were away by 10.00 with our first stop to top up the fuel tank at the next town, Andalsnes, before climbing the Trollstigen, or Trolls Staircase. This is a series of 11 hairpin bends, following a steep valley towards a spectacular waterfall. At the top there is a large carpark which was very crowded with at least 12 tour coaches (how on earth did they manage?) a couple of dozen motorhomes and countless cars - obviously it's Saturday so everybody is out for the day - but we managed to find a slot and Terry walked up to the several viewpoints for some piccies. The visitor centre is currently being renovated so closed until next year but the cafe and tourist shop were doing a roaring trade! It would have been better to visit this place during the week but the weather over the last two days would have meant we'd miss most of it so we made the best of it we could. To be fair, apart from the tourist hotspots everywhere else was relatively quiet. Even negotiating the dozens of hairpin bends was no problem, well, until a tourist coach came round the other way........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Down the other side, more hairpin bends and onto a ferry which had just arrived so no delays for the 10 minute crossing. We were now on the Geiranger road which climbs up another mountain (yes more hairpin bends!) before a very sharp, steep descent overlooking the most famous in Norway, the Geirangerfjord. Yet more hairpin bends giving us super views up and down the steep sided fjord and to the town itself where a Saga cruise ship was moored - that explained all the tour buses! The town was completely stacked out with no chance of parking a bike let alone an 8m motorhome so we crawled past and climbed up through the last of the hairpin bends onto a plateau and found a layby for lunch.

The road now was fairly straight with only gentle climbs and descents but with a totally different kind of scenery. Gone were the steep sided mountains, replaced with open moorland dotted with lakes, some still partially frozen although it wasn't cold. Some sunshine would have been nice but the clouds gave it that extra sombre look and the visibility was for ever. Checking the time it looked like continuing on to "do" the next leg would leave us quite late for finding an overnight stop and having experienced the fun of trying to find somewhere on a Saturday evening we decided to stop early and chose a small campsite. Of course being warm and humid the midgies were out but nets and citronella candles looked after that and we settled down to relax for the rest of the day.

As always the photos don't come even close to doing the scenery justice but we'll remember today as one of the best we've ever seen.